Home inspectors are often asked by their clients if they should have their home tested for radon. Real-world loss-of-life comparisons help consumers decide about whether or not they should test. If you are worried about shark attacks, getting trampled by cows, or terrorism, you should be worried sick about radon. These statistics help put things in their proper perspective so that your clients can decide if they want a radon test or not.  Here is a downloadable PDF that inspectors can give to their clients onsite to help them decide if they should get a radon test:  https://www.nachi.org/documents2012/radon-deaths-chart.pdf
 

 DEATHS PER YEARNumber
CauseSource
 611,105  Heart Disease -Centers for Disease Control (2015)
 584,881  All Cancers -Centers for Disease Control (2015)
 160,000  Smoking -American Cancer Society (2004)
 88,000  Alcohol Use- Centers for Disease Control (2015)
 51,783  Colon Cancer -Centers for Disease Control (2015)
 40,290  Breast Cancer -National Cancer Institute (2015)
 41,149  Suicide -Centers for Disease Control (2014)
 32,719  Motor Vehicle Accidents -Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (2013)
 29,500  Falls -National Safety Council (2013)
 22,767  Prescription Drug  Overdoses -National Institute on Drug Abuse (2013)
 21,840  Leukemia U.S.- EPA (2010)
 21,530  Lymphoma U.S. -EPA (2010)
 21,000  Lung Cancer from Radon Gas U.S. -EPA
16,121   Homicides -Centers for Disease Control (2013)
 14,775  Illegal Drug Overdoses -National Institute on Drug Abuse (2013)
 13,712  AIDS -Centers for Disease Control (2012)
11,208   Firearm Homicides Centers for Disease Control (2013)
 8,257  Heroin Overdoses -National Institute on Drug Abuse (2013)
 4,944  Cocaine Overdoses -National Institute on Drug Abuse (2013)
 3,880  Drowning -Centers for Disease Control (avg. 2005-2009)
 3,005  Fires -U.S. Fire Administration (2011)
 3,000  Secondhand Smoke  -U.S. EPA
 2,500  Choking -National Safety Council (2009)
 1,690  Thyroid Cancer -U.S. EPA (2010)
 630  Bicycle Accidents  -National Safety Council (2009)
 618  Excessive Heat -Centers for Disease Control (avg. 1999-2010) 
606   Firearm Accidents -Law Center to Prevent Gun Violence (2010)
 376  ATV Accidents -National Safety Council (2009)
 300  Ladder Falls -International Association of Certified Home  Inspectors
170   Carbon Monoxide -Consumer Product Safety Commission
 104  Wind (including tornadoes) -National Oceanic and Atmospheric  Administration  (2012)
 100  Scalding Tap Water -Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public  Health  (2013)
 100  Bee Stings -Boston Children's Hospital 
 72  Terrorist Attacks -FBI (avg. 1970-2015)
 26  Lightning -National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration  (2014)
 20  Dangerous Cows -Centers for Disease Control (2009)
 15  Falling Icicles- Death in Society Research Foundation
 12  High School and College  Football Injuries -National Center for Catastrophic Sports Injury  Research (2013)
 2  Vending Machines Accidents -U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
 1  Shark Attacks -Mother Nature Network (2012)
 0  Marijuana Overdoses -Numerous sources
 0  Nuclear Power Plant Leaks -Numerous sources

Carpeted bathrooms are bathrooms that have carpeted floors instead of traditional floor surfaces, such as tile or vinyl. Despite their tendency to foster mold and bacteria, carpets are sometimes installed in residential bathrooms for aesthetic purposes. Carpets should never be installed in bathrooms in commercial buildings.
 
Advantages of Carpets in Bathrooms

• They make bathrooms appear more warm and inviting. 
• They are softer than tile and many people find them comfortable on bare feet. 
• Bathroom slip hazards are reduced. It is easier to slip on hard bathroom surfaces, such as tile, than on carpet. 
• Installation is generally quick and inexpensive.

Disadvantages of Carpets in Bathrooms
 
The pad beneath the carpet may soak up large amounts of moisture.  Some of the common ways that carpets may come into contact with moisture in bathrooms include:

• Steam from the shower will condense on the carpet.
• Water splashes from the tub or shower.
• Water sheds from shower/tub occupants as they step onto the carpet.
• Water splashes out of the sink.
• Water drips from the vanity.
• Water leaks from the toilet. 

The presence of moisture in the pad will lead to the growth of decay fungi on the wood or oriented strand board (OSB) sub-floor. The sub-floor will be decayed and weakened by mold. Mold also releases spores that can cause respiratory ailments, especially for those with certain health problems. Inspectors can use moisture meters to determine if there is excess moisture beneath a carpet.
 In addition to potential mold growth beneath the carpet, bacteria can accumulate in carpeting that surrounds the toilet. Bacteria are contained in urine, which can be accidentally deflected onto the carpet.


Carpeted Bathrooms in Commercial Buildings
 
It is against code to install carpet in commercial bathrooms. The 2007 edition of the International Building Code (IBC) states the following concerning carpeted bathrooms in commercial buildings:
In other than dwelling units, toilet, bathing and shower room floor finish materials shall have a smooth, hard, nonabsorbent surface. The intersections of such floors with walls shall have a smooth, hard, nonabsorbent vertical base that extends upward onto the walls at least 4 inches (102 mm).
Recommendations for Clients
 
The following are recommendations that InterNACHI inspectors can pass on to clients who are experiencing urine- or moisture-related problems with their bathroom carpet:

• Clean the carpet regularly to remove any mold or urine that may be present. 
• Keep the carpet as dry as possible. Various devices exist that prevent water from bypassing the shower curtain. 
• Install a bathroom fan, if one is not installed already. If a fan is installed, operate it more often. 
• Inspectors can inform their clients about why they are experiencing problems.

In summary, carpets installed in bathrooms can trap moisture and urine, substances that can cause structural damage and health problems.

The Dangers of Mold
Molds produce allergens, which are substances that can cause allergic reactions, as well as irritants and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances known as mycotoxins.  Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.  Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis).  Allergic reactions to mold are common.  They can be immediate or delayed.  Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold.  In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people.  Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold, but can also occur.
Carpet at Risk
Carpeting is an area of the home that can be at high risk for mold growth.  In order to grow, mold needs moisture, oxygen, a food source, and a surface to grow on.  Mold spores are commonly found naturally in the air.  If spores land on a wet or damp spot indoors that contains dust for them to feed on, mold growth will soon follow. Wall-to-wall carpeting, as well as area rugs, can provide an ample breeding ground for mold if conditions are right.  At especially high risk for mold growth are carpeting located below ground level in basements, carpet in commonly moist or damp climates, and carpet that has been wet for any period of time.  
Identifying Mold in Carpeting
Just because mold is not immediately apparent or visible on a carpet's surface does not mean that mold growth is not in progress.  In fact, mold will probably only be visible on the surface of carpets in unusually severe cases of growth, such as carpet damaged in flooding that has remained wet for some time.  The following are some examples of identifiable instances where mold growth has occurred or is likely to occur:

• visible mold growth:  As stated above, this can be a rare case, but sometimes it may be obvious from visual inspection that mold growth is occurring.  Carpet in this condition is most likely not salvageable and should be disposed of and replaced.  Often, even if mold growth is not visible on the top of carpeting, it may be occurring underneath the carpet where it can't be easily seen.  Carpet suspected of containing mold should always be examined on both sides.
  
  
• carpet mildew:  Any discoloration or odor on carpeting that might be described as mildew is probably a case of mold.
  
  
• wet or water-damaged carpet:  Any carpet that has been subjected to water damage from flooding or standing water will most likely need to be disposed of.  Conditions are ripe for mold growth, in this case.  Even if visibly apparent mold growth has not yet begun, it is highly likely to happen unless the carpet is completely removed, cleaned and dried within 24 to 48 hours.  Even then, removal and cleaning are not guaranteed to prevent mold growth.  It is more likely that the carpet will need to be replaced.
  
  
• wet padding beneath carpet:  If padding beneath the carpet has become wet for any reason, or has become moist from condensation, the padding as well as the carpet on top are at risk for mold growth.  The padding may need to be replaced, as will the carpet, in some cases.
  
  
• basement carpet:  Carpeting in basements below grade level is especially at risk in areas where humidity is high, or where wide temperature swings can produce condensation.
  
  
• odors and stains:  There is a wide range of things that can cause odors and stains on carpets.  If mold is suspected, samples can be taken and sent for analysis to determine if mold growth has occurred.

Preventing Mold Growth in Carpeting
The best method for combating mold is to not allow mold growth in the first place.  The best way to do so is by ensuring that conditions conducive to growth do not exist.  Below are some ways to prevent mold growth in carpets.

• Reduce indoor humidity.  The use of dehumidifiers will help control moisture in the air, depriving mold spores of the water they need to grow into mold.  A range of 30% to 60% humidity is acceptable for interiors.
  
  
• Install intelligently.  Do not install carpeting in areas that are likely to be subject to frequent, high moisture.  Carpet in a bathroom, for example, will quickly turn to a breeding ground for mold growth due to the high humidity from constant water use in that area.
  
  
• Choose high-quality carpet padding.  Solid, rubber-slab carpet padding with anti-microbial properties is available.  It is slightly more expensive than other types of padding but can be helpful for preventing the growth of mold, especially in climates prone to periods of high humidity.
  
  
• Never allow standing water.  Carpet exposed to standing water will quickly be ruined.  If standing water ever occurs because of a leak or a spill, all carpeting exposed must be immediately cleaned and dried.  The top and bottom surfaces of the carpet, any padding, and the floor underneath must be cleaned and completely dried within a short period of time after exposure to standing water if the carpet is to be saved.  If a large flood has occurred, or if standing water has been present for any extended period of time, the carpet will probably need to be replaced.
  
  
• Clean smart.  When carpeting needs to be cleaned, try to use a dry form of cleaning, when possible.  If any water, liquid, or other moisture has come in contact with the carpet during cleaning, be sure it is dried thoroughly afterward.
    

Removing Mold From Carpet
In many cases, if mold has grown on carpet, cleaning will not be possible.  If growth has occurred on more than one area of the carpet, or if there is a large area of growth, the carpet will probably need to be replaced.  
Small areas of growth that have been quickly identified can sometimes be dealt with.  Detergent and water used with a steam-cleaning machine may be enough to clean the carpet thoroughly.  It is then important to ensure that the carpet dries completely after cleaning to prevent the growth from recurring.  Stronger cleaning agents can be substituted if detergent does not work.  Anything stronger than detergent or common rug-cleaning products should first be tested on an inconspicuous area of the carpet to ensure that the rug will not be damaged during cleaning.  About 24 hours is a reasonable amount of time to wait after testing to be sure that wider cleaning will not discolor or damage the carpet. 
Another option in instances where mold growth is not widespread is to remove the ruined section of the carpet.  If cleaning has been attempted unsuccessfully, the area of mold growth may be removed and replaced with a patch of similar carpet.  Of course, this will only work in situations where aesthetics are not a big concern, since exactly matching the patch to the original carpet may be difficult and the seam may be visible.  If mold has grown in more than one area of the carpet, or if the area of growth is larger than a couple of feet, this will probably not be an effective method of mold removal. 
 
As with all areas of the interior at risk for mold growth, prevention is the best method of control for carpet mold.  Eliminating high-moisture conditions and preventing the risk of flooding or standing water will reduce the possibility of growth.  Inspectors will want to know where to look for and how to identify mold growth in carpeting.  It is also helpful to know how to determine if carpet should be replaced, or whether there is a possibility of cleaning and saving it.

Carpet beetles are household pests capable of destroying various household items. Inspection and knowledge of their habits can prevent costly destruction. 
Life Cycle and Habits
Female carpet beetles will lay 50 to 100 small, pearly-white eggs on protected surfaces near a food source, such as the lint around baseboards, in the ductwork of hot-air furnace systems, and on wool clothing in storage. Larvae emerge once the eggs hatch after six to 11 days in warm weather, although they may require more time in cool weather. The larval life spans between 250 to 650 days, most of it spent scavenging for protein-rich food in dimly lit areas. By the time they reach adulthood, carpet beetles will live for only another few weeks or months, and they will no longer damage household goods. Unlike larvae, adults are attracted to light and can be found busily flying around windows or feeding on pollen outdoors.
Types of Carpet Beetles
 
Carpet beetles come in several types of subspecies, including the following: 

• black carpet beetle:  Adults are oval and shiny black, with brownish legs. They vary in length from 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch. Larvae are golden to dark brown, and about 1/2-inch long. The body is narrow and elongated, and narrows toward the rear. 
• varied carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/10-inch to 1/8-inch long and nearly round. The top surface is usually gray, with a mixture of white, brown and yellow scales, and irregular black crossbands. The bottom surface has long, gray-yellow scales. Larvae are about 1/4-inch long, and light to dark brown in color. The body is wide and broader at the rear than the front. 
• furniture carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch long, nearly round and whitish, checkered with black spots, each outlined with yellowish-orange scales. The bottom surface is white and the legs have yellow scales. Larvae are about 1/4-inch long, elongated and oval, and thickly covered with brownish hair. 
• common carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/10-inch to 1/8-inch long, nearly round, and gray to black. They have minute, whitish scales and a band of orange-red scales down the middle of the back and around the eyes. Larvae are similar to those of the varied and furniture carpet beetles. 

Damage and Inspection
Carpet beetle larvae prefer to feed in dark, protected places, consuming and damaging wool, fur, silk, cashmere, feathers, bone, and synthetic and cellulose-based fibers that contain some amount of animal fibers. Check for larvae and their cast skins under baseboards, and in and under upholstered furniture, air ducts, stuffed animals, stored cereals and grain, abandoned bird and wasp nests under eaves, and in attics, and clothes closets. Stored items are vulnerable to severe damage, so periodically inspect woolens and other susceptible items. Also, inspect for improperly sealed windows, as these are a likely entry point for carpet beetles, although the insects are small enough that it may be impossible to completely prevent their entry.
It is important for the homeowner to know the difference between carpet beetle damage and damage caused by other pests, such as clothes moths. Fortunately, the distinction is simple; moth infestations are often accompanied by adult moths flying nearby, and you will likely find adult moths, pupae casings or cocoons and larvae in your clothes. Carpet beetles are less conspicuous, as they typically move elsewhere after feeding, and the adults spend much of their time outdoors.  Telltale signs of beetle-damaged clothing include small, irregular holes, especially around the collar. 
Chemical Treatments 
 
Homeowners interested in pest control measures for eliminating carpet beetles indoors have the following options: 

• permethrin:  This product is relatively safe and is recommended for mild infestations. 
• cyfluthrin:  This poison is longer-lasting than permethrin. 
• pheromone traps:  These baits attract adults using special scents, which lures them into glue from which they cannot escape. This measure will diminish the number of active adults, which, in turn, will reduce the risk of future infestations elsewhere in the building. 
• diatomaceous earth and silica aerogel:  These substances, known as desiccants, cause insects to lose moisture and, in small quantities, they are relatively harmless to humans.

Non-Chemical Treatment

• Sanitation is the best way to avoid carpet beetle infestations. Practice thorough and frequent vacuuming and sweeping of carpets, rugs, draperies, closets, drawers, upholstery, air ducts, corners, baseboards, and other places where lint and hair accumulate. 
• Wash your clothes to remove adults, larvae, eggs or pupae. Be sure to throw away badly infested pieces. 
• Remove dead insects and rodents. Carpet beetles feed on animal waste, including their excreta and carcasses, so be sure to inspect for dead insects, especially around windowsills, and control any rodent population in your home. Avoid poison baits, as dying mice may be found more quickly by the beetles than by you. 
• Thoroughly inspect second-hand items before bringing them into your house and immediately launder them, as carpet beetles often hitchhike into homes on clothing, rugs, quilts, and other items of animal origin.   
• Tightly seal windows and other openings, especially near flowers and shrubbery, where adults are likely to be found.  

In summary, carpet beetles are a common source of damaged household items, and measures should be taken to prevent infestation.

by Nick Gromicko 
​

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas that forms from incomplete combustion of fuels, such as natural or liquefied petroleum gas, oil, wood or coal.
 
Facts and Figures

• 480 U.S. residents died between 2001 and 2003 from non-fire-related carbon-monoxide poisoning. 
• Most CO exposures occur during the winter months, especially in December (including 56 deaths, and 2,157 non-fatal exposures), and in January (including 69 deaths and 2,511 non-fatal exposures). The peak time of day for CO exposure is between 6 and 10 p.m. 
• Many experts believe that CO poisoning statistics understate the problem. Because the symptoms of CO poisoning mimic a range of common health ailments, it is likely that a large number of mild to mid-level exposures are never identified, diagnosed, or accounted for in any way in carbon monoxide statistics. 
• Out of all reported non-fire carbon-monoxide incidents, 89% or almost nine out of 10 of them take place in a home.

Physiology of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
When CO is inhaled, it displaces the oxygen that would ordinarily bind with hemoglobin, a process the effectively suffocates the body. CO can poison slowly over a period of several hours, even in low concentrations. Sensitive organs, such as the brain, heart and lungs, suffer the most from a lack of oxygen. 
High concentrations of carbon monoxide can kill in less than five minutes. At low concentrations, it will require a longer period of time to affect the body. Exceeding the EPA concentration of 9 parts per million (ppm) for more than eight hours may have adverse health affects. The limit of CO exposure for healthy workers, as prescribed by the U.S. Occupational Health and Safety Administration, is 50 ppm.
 
Potential Sources of Carbon Monoxide
Any fuel-burning appliances which are malfunctioning or improperly installed can be a source of CO, such as:

• furnaces; 
• stoves and ovens; 
• water heaters; 
• dryers; 
• room and space heaters; 
• fireplaces and wood stoves; 
• charcoal grills; 
• automobiles; 
• clogged chimneys or flues; 
• space heaters; 
• power tools that run on fuel; 
• gas and charcoal grills; 
• certain types of swimming pool heaters; and  
• boat engines.

 
 
 
 
PPM 
% CO 
in air
Health Effects in Healthy Adults
Source/Comments

0
0%
no effects; this is the normal level in a properly operating heating appliance
 

35
0.0035%
maximum allowable workplace exposure limit for an eight-hour work shift
The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH)

50
0.005%
maximum allowable workplace exposure limit for an eight-hour work shift
              OSHA

100
0.01%
slight headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, 
errors in judgment


125
0.0125%
 
workplace alarm must sound (OSHA)

200
0.02%
headache, fatigue, 
nausea, dizziness


400
0.04%
severe headache, fatigue, nausea, dizziness, confusion; can be life-threatening after three hours of exposure
evacuate area immediately

800
0.08%
convulsions, loss of consciousness;
death within three hours
evacuate area immediately

12,000
1.2%
nearly instant death


 
 
CO Detector Placement
CO detectors can monitor exposure levels, but do not place them:

• directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up; 
• within 15 feet of heating and cooking appliances, or in or near very humid areas, such as bathrooms; 
• within 5 feet of kitchen stoves and ovens, or near areas locations where household chemicals and bleach are stored (store such chemicals away from bathrooms and kitchens, whenever possible); 
• in garages, kitchens, furnace rooms, or in any extremely dusty, dirty, humid, or greasy areas; 
• in direct sunlight, or in areas subjected to temperature extremes. These include unconditioned crawlspaces, unfinished attics, un-insulated or poorly insulated ceilings, and porches; 
• in turbulent air near ceiling fans, heat vents, air conditioners, fresh-air returns, or open windows. Blowing air may prevent carbon monoxide from reaching the CO sensors.

Do place CO detectors:

• within 10 feet of each bedroom door and near all sleeping areas, where it can wake sleepers. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) recommend that every home have at least one carbon monoxide detector for each floor of the home, and within hearing range of each sleeping area; 
• on every floor of your home, including the basement (source:  International Association of Fire Chiefs/IAFC); 
• near or over any attached garage. Carbon monoxide detectors are affected by excessive humidity and by close proximity to gas stoves (source:  City of New York); 
• near, but not directly above, combustion appliances, such as furnaces, water heaters, and fireplaces, and in the garage (source:  UL); and 
• on the ceiling in the same room as permanently installed fuel-burning appliances, and centrally located on every habitable level, and in every HVAC zone of the building (source:  National Fire Protection Association 720). This rule applies to commercial buildings.

In North America, some national, state and local municipalities require installation of CO detectors in new and existing homes, as well as commercial businesses, among them:  Illinois, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New Jersey, Vermont and New York City, and the Canadian province of Ontario. Installers are encouraged to check with their local municipality to determine what specific requirements have been enacted in their jurisdiction.
How can I prevent CO poisoning?

• Purchase and install carbon monoxide detectors with labels showing that they meet the requirements of the new UL standard 2034 or Comprehensive Safety Analysis 6.19 safety standards. 
• Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Have the heating system professionally inspected by an InterNACHI inspector and serviced annually to ensure proper operation. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections. 
• Never service fuel-burning appliances without the proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owner's manual when performing minor adjustments and when servicing fuel-burning equipment. 
• Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space, such as a garage, house or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels. 
• Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area. 
• Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent. 
• Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open. 
• Never use gas appliances, such as ranges, ovens or clothes dryers to heat your home. 
• Never operate un-vented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping. 
• During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete. 
• Do not place generators in the garage or close to the home. People lose power in their homes and get so excited about using their gas-powered generator that they don't pay attention to where it is placed. The owner's manual should explain how far the generator should be from the home. 
• Clean the chimney. Open the hatch at the bottom of the chimney to remove the ashes.  Hire a chimney sweep annually. 
• Check vents. Regularly inspect your home's external vents to ensure they are not obscured by debris, dirt or snow.

 
In summary, carbon monoxide is a dangerous poison that can be created by various household appliances. CO detectors must be placed strategically throughout the home or business in order to alert occupants of high levels of the gas.

by Nick Gromicko ​

Purchasing foreclosed homes in desirable areas at below-market values can be a sound investment strategy. Appreciation on their original prices may be tax-free.  Buying foreclosed rental properties can provide positive cash flow, as well as valuable tax deductions. On the other hand, buying a foreclosure involves homework, patience, and a certain amount of luck. For those wishing to get a bargain house through the foreclosure process, it’s best to learn the basics.
 Four Ways to Buy a Foreclosed Home

• A presale is when the prospective buyer negotiates with the current owner before the house is foreclosed upon. Presale discounts can be considerable, but communicating and reasoning with the owner isn’t always easy; they might have legal problems, lost their phone service or electricity, or greet you with suspicion, having already been hounded and threatened by creditors. And after time and energy have been invested, the deal can fall through if the owner comes up with the money to repay their debt, or for any number of unexpected reasons. With persistence, however, the seasoned real estate investor can profit from presales. To find out about presales, you can try one of the following avenues:
  • Ask your local county court how to search new notices of default. 
  • Find out if the County Recorder has data available online. 
  • Look in the "legal notices" section of the newspaper for properties that are coming up for sale at public auction. Take note of the address, the property owner’s name, the tax ID, and whatever other information is contained in the ad.
• A foreclosed home may be sold at a public auction, in which buyers can expect a discount of 10% to 25% of market value. Interested bidders are generally required to show proof of financing, and must have a minimum cash deposit before they are qualified to bid. It might be impossible to gain entry to inspect the interior, too, which makes this type of purchase risky. The local building department may have permit records that can clue you in to the building’s layout and appearance. 
• A real estate-owned (REO) sale is a transaction where a foreclosed house is purchased directly from the bank. These properties typically wound up in the bank’s portfolio after failing to sell at auction. REO investments are relatively safe, as there are no tenants to evict or hidden liens and, unlike properties sold at public auction, buyers can usually receive a mortgage to pay for them. And purchasers might even get an unused house; the slow economy has left many builders at the end of their construction-loan periods without finding buyers for the homes, in which case the bank will foreclose on the brand new homes. Unfortunately, REOs are usually offered at near-market prices to recoup the costs of property taxes, maintenance and legal fees. To find REOs, try the following:
  • Check lenders’ websites, as they may have a list of their REOs, along with contact information for the appropriate real estate agent. 
  • Call lenders and ask to speak to someone who handles their foreclosures. 
  • Check newspapers.
• The Department of Housing and Urban Development has tens of thousands of HUD homes whose previous owners defaulted on federally issued loans. After a period during which local governments gain exclusive buying privileges, they become available to individual buyers who pledge to live in the property. After another 10 days, investors may bid on the property. It’s difficult to make a profit on these houses, as HUD releases them at near-market values.

Tips for Foreclosure Purchases

• Invest time in research and preparation. Those new to the field should spend some time learning the variables of foreclosure investing before making any purchases. 
• Budget carefully to prepare for the unexpected. The house may require unforeseen repairs, such as a leaky roof or unstable deck. The price tag of the home itself is often just the first of a series of fees. What if you planned on rental cash flow to cover the mortgage, but you can’t find a tenant? 
• Avoid buying a foreclosure sight-unseen. Try to see the house yourself before buying it, or hire someone to evaluate at it in your absence. Distant investors are buying up properties unseen in bulk, and they’re often unpleasantly surprised at how much they’ve been misled. 
• Evaluate the neighborhood. If the foreclosure is rife with problems, but it’s in a desirable area with high property resale values, it may still be worth it to make a low offer. An area with several foreclosures or a high crime rate can undermine an otherwise good deal, however. 
• Consider how long the house has been vacant. Building damage – and the costs required to make the house livable - generally increases with the time that has lapsed since the last tenant vacated. Pests are a particular issue in houses that have been empty for a long time, and plumbing defects and leaks increase in likelihood in such homes, as well. 
• Examine the landscaping. Left unchecked, trees can send their roots into the foundation, and vines can creep into the windows. 
• Has the house been professionally inspected by an InterNACHI inspector? Foreclosures can be notorious for damage suffered at the hands of past tenants, through both inadvertent and intentional vandalism and theft.

In summary, there are a number of ways to go about buying a foreclosed home, and buyers should exercise patience, persistence and careful planning before buying foreclosed properties.

There are a number of measures that homeowners can take to ensure that their homes are not attractive to burglars. If clients are concerned about break-ins, inspectors can pass on to them basic strategies for burglar-proofing their homes.
 
Some interesting statistics concerning break-ins in the United States:

• InterNACHI estimates that theft makes up more than three-quarters of all reported crime. 

• In 2005, law enforcement agencies reported more than 2 million burglary offenses.

According to a survey, burglars enter homes through the following locations: 

• 81% enter through the first floor;
• 34% of burglars enter through the front door;
• 23% enter through a first-floor window; 
• 22% enter through the back door 
• 9% enter through the garage;
• 4% enter through the basement; 
• 4% enter through an unlocked entrance; 
• 2% enter through a storage area; and  
• 2% enter anywhere on the second floor.

Some interesting statistics (2002) concerning break-ins in Canada:

• The burglary rate in Canada (877 per 100,000 people) is seven times higher than that of the country with the fewest break-ins, Norway. 
• The burglary rate in Canada is slightly higher than that of the United States (746 per 100,000 people) but significantly less than the burglary rate in Australia (2,275 per 100,000 people). 

Exterior Doors

• Doors should be made of steel or solid-core wood construction. Hollow-core wood doors are more easily broken than heavy, solid-core doors. 
• Doors should be free of signs of rot, cracks and warping. 
• Doors should be protected by quality deadbolt locks. Chain locks are not adequate substitutes for deadbolt locks, although chain locks may be used as additional protection. 
• If a mail slot is present, it should be equipped with a cage or box. Mail slots that are not equipped with cages or boxes have been used by burglars to enter homes.  Burglars can insert a contraption made of wire and cord into the mail slot and use it to open the lock from the inside, if no box or cage is present. 
• If a door is equipped with glass panes, they should be installed far from the lock. Otherwise, burglars can smash the glass and reach through the door to unlock the door. 
• Spare keys should not be hidden in obvious locations. Burglars are very good at finding keys that homeowners believe are cleverly hidden. The best place for a spare key is in the house of a trusted neighbor. If keys must be hidden near the door, they should not be placed in obvious locations, such as under a doormat, rock or planter.  
• A peephole can be installed in doors so homeowners can see who is on their doorstep before they open the door. 
• Clients should consider installing bump-resistant locks on their doors. “Bumping” is a technique developed recently that can open almost any standard lock with less effort than is required by lock-picking. This technique uses "bump keys," which are normal keys with slight modifications. Lock companies such as Schlage, Primus and Medeco manufacture a number of locks that offer some bump-resistance.

Pet Doors

• Pet doors can be used by burglars to enter homes. Some burglars have reached through pet doors in order to unlock the door. It is advisable to not have a pet door, but if one is necessary, it should be as small as possible and installed far from the lock. 
• A crafty burglar may convince or coerce a small child to crawl through a pet door and unlock the door. Also, some burglars are children. 
• Electronic pet doors are available that open only when the pet, equipped with a signaling device in their collar, approaches the door. These doors are designed to keep stray animals out of the home, and may provide protection against burglars, as well.

Sliding Glass Doors

• They should be equipped with locks on their tops and bottoms.
• They should not be able to be lifted from their frames.
• A cut-off broom handle, or a similar device, can be laid into the door track to prevent it from being opened.

Illumination

• Lights should be installed on the exterior of all four sides of the house. Burglars prefer darkness so they cannot be seen by neighbors or passersby. 
• When building occupants are not home, a few lights should be left on. 
• It is helpful to install exterior lights that are activated by motion sensors. Burglars that are suddenly illuminated may flee.

Windows

• All windows should be composed of strong glass, such as laminated glass, and be in good operating order.
• They can be installed with bars, grilles, grates or heavy-duty wire screening. Barred windows must be equipped with a quick-release mechanism so occupants can quickly escape during a fire.
• Windows should not be hidden by landscaping or structures. If landscaping or structures cannot be moved, lighting can be installed around the windows.

Landscaping and Yard

• Shrubs and trees should not obscure the view of entrances. Shielded entrances can provide cover for burglars while they attempt to enter the residence. 
• Fences are helpful burglar deterrents, although they should not be difficult to see through.

While the house is vacant:

• A loud radio can be used to make burglars think someone is home. Timers can be used to activate radios and lights to make the home seem occupied.
• A car should always be parked in the driveway. A neighbor’s car can be parked there so that it appears as if someone is home.
• The lawn should be cut regularly. Uncut grass is a clue that no one is home. 

Other Tips 

• Dogs are excellent burglar deterrents. For clients who cannot own dogs, they can place "Beware of Dog" signs around the yard for nearly the same effect.
• If no security system is installed, the client can post security alarm stickers around the yard. 

In summary, there are a number of tactics that inspectors can pass on to their clients that will help safeguard their homes from break-ins. 

What Is a Bump Key?
 
Most people think a locked door affords them security, but to anyone who knows how to use a bump key, a door lock is just a minor inconvenience.
 
Bump keys are keys cut to a special design that will allow them to be used for picking pin-tumbler locks. Pin-tumbler locks are the world's most popular lock, and these include exterior door entry locks for homes. The process of gaining entry using a bump key is called “bumping,” and it can be very effective.
 

Above:  a pin-tumbler lock
 
All the cuts on a bump key are made to the maximum depth, so any key blank can be made into a bump key. Bump keys are manufacturer-specific.  A Kwikset lock requires a bump key made from a Kwikset key.  The same is true for other lock brands.  So, a full set of bump keys would include one for each of the major lockset manufacturers.
 
How Does It Work?
 
Keys operate by aligning tiny spring-loaded pins inside the lock. Once the pins are correctly aligned, the cylinder will turn and the lock can be operated.
 
To use a bump key, the "pull-back" method is common. With this method, the key is inserted all the way in, and then pulled back out one notch. While keeping rotational pressure on the key, it is then bumped into the keyway with the heel of the hand or with a device of some sort.
 
The "bumper" needs to bump the key hard enough to jar the pins, but not so much that the lock or key is damaged. Bumping the key causes the pins to jump slightly. Even this slight amount of motion is enough to allow the bump key to turn the cylinder, unlocking the lock. 
 

 
The image above-left shows the condition just before the key is bumped. The image above-right is just after the key has been bumped. The driver pins (in blue) have bounced above the shear line, while the key pins (in red) are still below the shear line. As long as the shear line is unblocked, the cylinder can turn and the lock will open.
 
Another method for using a bump key, called "minimal movement," is slightly more sophisticated than the pull-back method. Bump-key performance can be improved by filing away an additional 0.25 to 0.5 mm from the key tip and shoulder, allowing the key to be inserted slightly farther into the lock. 
 
How Effective Are Bump Keys?
 
The success of the bumper depends on practice.  Very little skill is required, and the learning curve is short. Success will also vary with the type of lock and quality of the key. Keys made from soft metal won’t last long. Bumping tends to work better on more expensive locks, since the hard, high-quality parts work more smoothly.
 
Bump keys sometimes deform when they’re hit, causing them to jam in the keyway. They can be difficult to remove.
 
How Can I Tell If a Lock Has Been Bumped?
 
You can sometimes spot a lock that has been opened with a bump key if you see a small indentation just above the keyway. Some older, softer locks will have dents even though they have not been bumped. 
 
It’s also possible to make bump keys that are protected from leaving indentations.  You may be able to tell that a lock has been bumped, but don’t count on it.
 

Above:  a typical bump key
 
Can I Buy a Bump Key?
 
Owning or possessing a bump key is not currently illegal, and bump key sets, and videos on how to use them, are available online. To acquire a bump key, all that’s needed is the identification of the manufacturer of the lock.
 
How Can I Improve My Home's Security?
 
At least two companies, Schlage and Baldwin, make locksets designed to defeat bump keys.  But many locks that use a key and the pin-tumbler system are vulnerable to bumping. No standards exist which demonstrate resistance to bumping. The resistance to bumping a deadbolt lockset varies with the manufacturer.  Electronic locks that have a key override are also vulnerable.
 
Bump-proof locks are rare and expensive.  Bump-resistant locks are much more common.  Some (but not all) lockset manufacturers include bump-resistant features in their newer locks.  
 
Without buying a new, bump-resistant lock, consumers have two options.  Usually, for less than $20, a locksmith can replace the original lock pins with "mushroom" pins, sometimes called spool pins, depending on the manufacturer.  While these pins will improve the resistance of the lock, they will not make it bump-proof.
 
Medeco is a company that makes high-end locks.  They can provide bump-proof lock cylinders for which a duplicate key is available only through Medeco-authorized dealers.  Their cylinders start at around $100, although their less-expensive cylinders may not be bump-proof.
 
Will Insurance Cover Theft?
 
If a home is burglarized using a bump key, the theft may or may not be covered by insurance, depending on how the policy is written. If proof of forced entry is required, the theft may not be covered.  Be sure to consult your insurance agent with questions about this.
 
Although bump keys have been around for more than 50 years, their existence has become more widely-known with the advent of the Internet.  Consumers should be aware of this potential danger to their home's security.
 
In summary, home inspectors should warn their clients about making sure their door locks are sufficiently secure to prevent unauthorized entry by someone using a bump key.  Taking extra safety precautions, such as installing an alarm system, can provide homeowners with enhanced protection of their property.