At Craftsman Home Inspections llc we are certified radon testers and we can schedule your radon test for you or your clients. Find out more about radon gas below or help inform your clients about the dangers of Radon Gas - The number one cause of lung cancer after smoking!

Craftsman Home Inspections llc is a home inspection and Radon Testing company proudly serving the Aurora CO and Denver CO Metro Areas. If you are looking for a Home Inspector in Aurora or Denver, please give us a call at 720-593-0383 or check us out online at CraftsmanColorado.com.

Meet your Aurora CO Home Inspection Company. As a Colorado native, Jeremiah Wheelersburg, C.P.I (Certified Professional Inspector) and Craftsman Home Inspections llc strive to provide the best home inspection and radon testing services in the Denver CO metro area. We offer same day reporting for no additional charge. Our motto is to give you “Our Best Inspection, Every Time!” Find out more at our website http://www.craftsmancolorado.com www.craftsmancolorado.com The video was shot and produced by Jason Vaz - Find out how you can have Jason and his company Suite Shot create your film http://vazzypix.com
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Craftsman Home Inspections llc is a home inspection and Radon Testing company proudly serving the Aurora CO and Denver CO Metro Areas. If you are looking for a Home Inspector in Aurora or Denver, please give us a call at 720-593-0383 or check us out online at CraftsmanColorado.com.

Craftsman Home Inspections llc is a home inspection and Radon Testing company proudly serving the Aurora CO and Denver CO Metro Areas. If you are looking for a Home Inspector in Aurora or Denver, please give us a call at 720-593-0383 or check us out online at CraftsmanColorado.com.

Guest Contributor - Anthony Gilbert, REALTOR

Craftsman Home Inspections llc is a home inspection and Radon Testing company proudly serving the Aurora CO and Denver CO Metro Areas. If you are looking for a Home Inspector in Aurora or Denver, please give us a call at 720-593-0383 or check us out online at CraftsmanColorado.com.

Clothing moths readily damage natural fibers and can create problems for home dwellers, but these insects are among the most misunderstood of household pests. 
Facts and Figures

• Moth larvae, or caterpillars, consume and damage fibers. Adult males search for females, who, in turn, look for places to lay eggs, but neither of them eats anything or damages clothing. 
• There are two species of clothing moth, known as casemaking and webbing. The casemaking moth larvae carry a camouflaged silken case, into which they may retreat, if threatened. 

Life Cycle and Habits
Female clothing moths lay an average of 40 to 50 eggs over a period of two to three weeks, and they die once their egg-laying has been completed.  Males outlive females and continue to mate during the remainder of their lives. Eggs are attached to adhesive secretions, from which they hatch after a period of days. The emerging larvae, which appear shiny white with a dark head capsule, remain for approximately 35 days to 30 months before pupating into adult moths. Adults have a wingspan of about ½-inch, and are golden-colored, with reddish golden hairs on top of the head. Larvae and adults prefer dim areas, and if larvae find themselves in a well-lit room, they will try to relocate beneath furniture, carpet edges or moldings at a room's edges. 
Clothing moths should not be confused with food-infesting moths, which pose no threat to fabrics. Food-infesting moths are larger, at approximately ½-inch in length (rather than ¼-inch), and lack the tufts of hair found on the heads of clothes moths. Their behavior is distinct, too; clothes moths typically stay near the source of the infestation, and they flutter about in a seemingly absent-minded manner, making them easier to catch than food-infesting moths, which fly in a more direct, steady path.
Damage
Moths are often mistakenly blamed for damaged fabric, so it’s important to clearly evaluate their appetite and limitations. Clothing moths exclusively target animal fibers, such as wool, feathers, fur, hair, silk and cashmere, especially where they are stained with beverages, urine, sweat, or oil from hair. Carpet beetles, too, readily consume animal fibers, which can further hamper the accurate identification of the source of the damage. Cellulose fibers, such as cotton, and synthetic fibers, such as polyester, are usually safe from the ravaging mouths of moth larvae, although these fabrics may be eaten if they are heavily soiled or blended with wool or other animal fibers.  The most heavy damage is suffered by articles left undisturbed for a long time, such as old military uniforms, blankets, wool upholstery, feathered hats, antique dolls and toys, natural-bristle brushes, weavings, wall hangings, piano felts, old furs, and stored wool carpets and clothing. 
Repellents and Insecticides

• Mothballs are small balls of chemical pesticide and deodorant used for the protection of stored clothing and other articles susceptible to damage from moths and their larvae. Both naphthalene and paradichlorobenzene – the two chemicals used to create moth balls -- sublimate, meaning that they transition from a solid straight to a gas. For these chemicals to be effective, the mothballs need to be placed with the clothing in a sealed container so that the fumes can build up and kill the moths. Beware that mothballs are highly toxic when ingested, causing serious illness or death. In addition to this, using a very large quantity of mothballs in a basement or a living space may cause serious respiratory problems in people. 
• Cedar blocks, shavings and oil are often used as natural moth repellents. Although it’s likely that cedar can protect clothing from moth larvae attack, its mechanism of action is poorly understood, which often leads to ineffective implementation of the substance. Contrary to popular belief, it’s unlikely that cedar actually harms moths or their larvae, unlike naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene. It might not necessarily repel them, either; cedar, like other repellents, occupies the moth’s sense of smell, disguising the aroma of wool, their natural target.

Non-Chemical Prevention

• Practice good housekeeping. Regularly vacuum rugs, carpets, drapes, upholstered furniture, pet bedding, closets, cracks and crevices in floors, and areas inside and behind heaters, furnace air ducts and vents to prevent the buildup of materials on which moths feed, such as lint, dust and hair. Particularly susceptible are areas that are under furniture that is seldom moved, and along baseboards where wool lint may accumulate. After using the vacuum, empty the bag immediately because it may contain eggs or larvae. 
• Clean garments regularly and thoroughly. Clothing moths are attracted to articles soiled by food, beverages, perspiration and urine. Regular washing and dry-cleaning are both effective. 
• Store articles properly. Place clean articles in tight storage containers or plastic bags that lack holes or tears. Storage containers should have tight-fitting lids, and they can be sealed even more tightly with tape. 
• Place garments in cold storage where temperatures remain below 40° F, as larvae are inactive at this temperature, and adult moths slow down. Freezing temperatures usually fall short of eliminating moth populations, however, as they can survive for long periods in unheated attics and barns in old furniture, clothing and blankets.

In summary, homeowners should learn to identify and control clothing moth infestations.

by Nick Gromicko ​

Clothes Closet Lighting 
 
People don’t often think about the fire risks posed by the light in their clothes closet, but it’s one of the few places in the house where a source of high heat can get too close to flammable materials. Lighting must be installed safely with adequate separation from clothes, boxes and other flammables stored in the closet.  Additionally, the quality of the light, as well as bulb efficiency, will influence your lighting choices.  
 
The 2009 International Residential Code (IRC) on "Permitted Luminaires and Clearance from Clothing"
 
The IRC defines a "luminaire" as follows:  
a complete lighting unit consisting of a lamp or lamps, together with the parts designed to distribute the light, to position and protect the lamps and ballast (where applicable), and to connect the lamps to the power supply.
 
Types of luminaires permitted by the 2009 IRC include:

• surface-mounted or recessed incandescent luminaires with completely enclosed lamps, surface-mounted or recessed fluorescent luminaires; and 
• surface-mounted fluorescent or LED luminaires identified as suitable for installation within the storage area. 

Luminaires not permitted by the 2009 IRC:

• Incandescent luminaires with open or partially enclosed lamps and pendant luminaires or lamp-holders should be prohibited. 

Clearances permitted by the 2009 IRC:
The minimum distance between luminaires installed in clothes closets and the nearest point of a storage area shall be as follows:
1. Surface-mounted incandescent or LED luminaires with a completely enclosed light source shall be installed on a wall above the door or on the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 12 inches (305 mm) between the fixture and the nearest point of a storage space.
2. Surface-mounted fluorescent luminaires shall be installed on the wall above the door or on the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 6 inches (152 mm). 
3. Recessed incandescent luminaires or LED luminaires with a completely enclosed light source shall be installed in the wall or the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 6 inches (152 mm). 
4. Recessed fluorescent luminaires shall be installed in the wall or on the ceiling, provided that there is a minimum clearance of 6 inches (152 mm) between the fixture and the nearest point of storage space. 
5. Surface-mounted fluorescent or LED luminairesshall be permitted to be installed within the storage space where identified within this use. 
 
Also, metal pull chains may be dangerous; if the base cracks, the chain can become electrified. 
 
Color Rendering Index (CRI)
 
CRI is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reproduce the colors of various objects faithfully, in comparison with an ideal or natural light source. The closer the CRI of a lamp is to 100, the more "true" it renders colors in the environment. Poor CRI is the reason that a shirt and pants that seemed to match at home now clash in the restroom at work. For clothes closets lighting, the CRI should be as high as possible. Incandescent lights are inefficient but they have a CRI of 100, making them the most aesthetic lighting choice. Compact fluorescents lights (CFLs) are far more efficient and have a longer life than incandescent bulbs, but they have a CRI in the low 60s, making them a poor choice for clothes closet applications. Low-voltage halogen and LED lights are relatively efficient, long-lasting, and have a high CRI, although not as high as incandescent bulbs. 
 
 
In summary, homeowners should replace lighting in their clothes closets if the light has the potential to ignite flammable materials in the closet.

When a home is sold, there is a point in the transaction known as the closing, when the title to the property is transferred to the new owner. The buyer and/or seller commonly incur miscellaneous fees, which are collectively known as closing costs. These fees can be significant, averaging approximately 2% to 4% of the purchase price, although they may be as much as 8%. 
 
Take a look at the following guide to get a better idea of what buyers and sellers are expected to pay upon closing:

• inspection fees. Lenders may require a termite inspection or an analysis of the structural condition of the property in order to assure that a home will be reliable collateral to secure against a loan. An inspection of the septic system and water supply tests may also be required in rural areas. Always be sure to hire an InterNACHI inspector to get the most out of an inspection. 
• points. This one-time, prepaid interest is paid by the buyer to the lender as a way to reduce the rate of interest on the mortgage loan. One point equals 1% of the loan's principal. For example, one point on a $200,000 loan is $2,000. If the borrower plans to live in the home for a long time, it might be to his advantage to negotiate for more points. Points can be financed by adding them to the loan, or they may be paid upfront and deducted from the current year’s income taxes. 
• title search fees. This one-time fee is used by buyers and lenders to make sure that the seller legally owns the property, and that the property has no outstanding liens or restrictions for use of which the buyer is unaware. If divorces, contested wills or court judgments are discovered during the title search, future complications can be avoided. Anyone may perform a title search, but borrowers commonly hire an attorney or title company to perform a thorough search. 
• title insurance. Title insurance policies are purchased to protect the lender against an error in the results of the title search, which would otherwise endanger the lender’s investment in the borrower’s mortgage. In case the title is challenged in court, title insurance will reimburse the insured up to a predetermined dollar amount. 
• appraisal fees. Lenders want to be assured that the property to be purchased is worth at least as much as the amount of the loan. An appraisal, performed by a licensed professional appraiser, will determine the fair market value of the property. The requirement of an appraisal may be waived if one has been performed recently. 
• recording fees. These are paid to the clerk and recorder's office of the county where the property is located for the service of entering an official record of the change of a property’s ownership. 
• application fee. This cost covers the assessment of the buyer's credit report and the initial processing fee of the mortgage loan. The cost is several hundred dollars. 
• loan origination fee. This umbrella charge covers the evaluation and preparation of the loan, which may include fees charged by the lender’s attorney or notary. The total cost can be several thousand dollars, although it can be reduced somewhat by a larger down payment. 
• prepaid interest. While the new homeowner's first mortgage payment may not be due for some time after closing, interest starts accruing immediately after closing. For instance, if the deal closes on October 11th, the homeowner will owe interest for the 20 days preceding the first mortgage payment. 
• prepaid property insurance. Lenders typically require that the first year's premiums of property insurance be paid in advance. 
• property survey fee. A survey is performed of the lot and its structures to confirm the deed's legal description of the property,  including the property's dimensions, and to check for encroachments, and verify that the house and other structures are where the seller says they are.
• homeowners association (HOA) dues. If the property is part of an HOA, the buyer will need to cover, in advance, the requisite fees for the part of the remaining year that they will own the property. 
• property taxes. Like HOA fees, buyers must pay upfront the share of the property taxes for which they are proportionally responsible.

Tips for Reducing Closing Costs

• Home buyers short on cash can roll the closing costs into the mortgage loan. It is also possible for the lender to pay the closing costs in exchange for a higher interest rate. 
• Choose a closing date that's near the end of the month, as this will save money on prepaid interest. 
• Negotiate with the seller of the property to help pay for some of the closing costs.

In summary, closing costs include a variety of miscellaneous fees paid by the home buyer and/or seller.

Cisterns are tanks that store water for a variety of purposes, such as irrigation, fire suppression and drinking.
 
Uses

• Potable water may be stored in cisterns for such purposes as drinking, bathing and dishwashing. Treated water may arrive from public water sources or filtered from rainwater in a catchment system. 
• Non-potable water can be stored for uses such as irrigation and washing cars. 
• Many communities have invested in large cisterns for fire-suppression purposes, some of which can hold more than three times as much water as a typical fire truck. The town of Littleton, New Hampshire, for instance, approved funding for the purchase of 21 cisterns, each with a capacity of 10,000 gallons, at a cost of $41,000 per tank.

Materials


Cisterns must be made from sturdy materials to support an immense water weight. One gallon of water weighs 8.3 pounds (3.7 kg), and each cubic foot of water weighs 62.4 pounds (28.3 kg). Wind loads may also take a toll on exposed elevated tanks. Some common materials used in cistern construction include:

• reinforced concrete. Often the best investment, reinforced concrete is durable and may help neutralize water acidity. 
• reinforced concrete block. These have a tendency to leak at their joints. 
• metal. However, metal may corrode. 
• fiberglass. Fiberglass may have strength problems when buried. If above ground, fiberglass cisterns should be located in shaded areas to reduce the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation. 
• wood. Wooden cisterns are generally not satisfactory, particularly when they are used below ground, because they are difficult to keep sealed.

Inspection


Cisterns, along with all their components and accessories, should undergo regular inspections. Replacement or repair of the unit as a whole, and any of its constituent parts and accessories, should subsequently be undertaken, if needed. The primary concern of a cistern inspection is to detect leaks, which can allow water to escape or contaminants to enter the tank. In addition, the following elements may be inspected:

• roof catchment, to ensure that no particulate matter or other parts of the roof are entering the gutter and downspout. Rainwater picks up dust, soot, bird droppings, leaves and other foreign materials that add objectionable organisms, color and odor to the water. For this reason, inspect to make sure that overhanging trees are not part of the catchment system; 
• gutters and downspouts should be inspected to assure that no leaks or obstructions are occurring;
• runoff/overflow pipe, to check that overflow is draining in a non-erosive manner; 
• any accessories, such as a rain diverter, soaker hose, linking kit or additional guttering; and 
• cistern drains should not be interconnected with waste or sewer lines, as this may allow backflow contamination.

Maintenance 


Maintenance requirements for cisterns are relatively few if they supply non-potable water. Cisterns designed for the drinking water supply have much higher maintenance requirements, such as biannual testing for water quality and filtering systems. The following maintenance guidelines can be followed for most types of cisterns:

• Before a cistern is used, it should be cleaned and disinfected. After cleaning out any dirt and other debris accumulated during construction, scrub the interior with a bleach-water solution. Make sure that there is ample ventilation for the workers inside the cistern. After this treatment, hose down the interior until the chlorine odor disappears. 
• A cistern needs to be cleaned at least every five years. This might be needed more often where blowing dust, leaves and fireplace or stove ash fall on the roof. Inspecting and cleaning the gutters, downspout and filter will help to keep the cistern cleaner. 
• Keep manhole covers tight. 
• Repair leaks promptly with sealants. Portland cement paints and epoxy resins are available to seal cracks in concrete.

Placement 


Although usually located underground, cisterns may be placed at ground level or on elevated stands either outdoors or within buildings. For safety and efficiency considerations, cisterns should be placed:

• away from sewage lines or other sources of contamination; 
• as far away from trees as possible, as tree roots can crack cistern walls; 
• in areas that are sloped to drain surface water away from the cisterns; 
• near their catchments; 
• in firm ground to avoid settling, which can crack cistern walls; and 
• away from sources of heat.

In summary, cisterns are water storage tanks that must be maintained and inspected, especially if they supply potable water.

Buying a home?  It's probably the most expensive purchase you'll ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant.  
 
You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Don't stop now.  Don't let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors  perform the best inspections by far. 
 
InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor... and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.
The licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code,any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to "sense" if a house is OK) and even pets can theoretically be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.
InterNACHI inspectors:

• have to pass InterNACHI's Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years (it's free and open to everyone, and free to re-take); 
• have to complete InterNACHI's online Code of Ethics Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced); 
• have to take InterNACHI's online Standards of Practice Course (free to take after joining, and self-paced);
• must submit a signed Membership Affidavit;
• substantially adhere to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice; 
• abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics;
• have to submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI's Report Review Committee (for free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously;
• within the first year of membership, have to successfully pass the following free online, accredited, and self-paced courses and exams:
  • InterNACHI’s "Safe Practices for the Home Inspector" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Roof Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect HVAC Systems" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "Structural Issues for Home Inspectors" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Exterior Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Perform Deck Inspections" course,
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion" course, and
  • InterNACHI’s "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys" course.
• have to pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year;
• have to maintain their Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI's rigorous Continuing Education policy;
• have access to InterNACHI's Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts; 
• have access to InterNACHI's "What's New" section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry;
• have access to InterNACHI's time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits; 
• have access to InterNACHI's Report Review/Mentoring Service;
• have to carry E&O Insurance (if their state requires it); 
• have access to a real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause;
• and have access to many other benefits, training, marketing tools and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals, provided for free by the world's largest inspector association.

So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), make sure that inspector is a member of InterNACHI. 

Manufactured homes no longer have to be the simple, rectangular, boxy trailer homes of the past. Depending on the size of your home site, you can choose from single-section or multi-section designs. Homes range in size from 900 to 2,500 square feet and can be customized to meet your needs and preferences.  
 
Here are some important questions to consider when choosing your manufactured home.
 
What features are available?
  
The interior design of your home can include many of the custom features available in a conventional home. Because most manufacturers use computer-assisted design, you'll have flexibility in choosing variations of floor plans and décor. You can also choose from a variety of exterior designs, depending on your taste and budget. Exterior siding comes in an array of colors and materials, including metal, vinyl, wood and cementitious sidings, which are virtually fireproof. Awnings, enclosures around the crawlspace, patio covers, decks and steps also are available.
 
How much can I expect to pay for a home?
  
Depending on the size, floor plans and any custom features, a new home can cost anywhere from $15,000 to more than $100,000. This price doesn't include the property on which it sits.  Depending on the site, you may be purchasing it, leasing it or renting it.
 
What financing options are available?
 
Your retailer usually can provide information about financing. You can also check with lenders in your area. Just as there are choices when you buy a site-built home, there are a variety of financing options when you buy a manufactured home. Down payments and loan terms are similar to conventional loans (5% to 10% of the manufactured home's sales price), and loan terms from 15 to 30 years. Most lenders offer fixed- and variable-rate loans, and most have programs that allow you to "buy the rate down." If you own or plan to purchase the land where you will place your home, traditional mortgage financing can often be arranged.
 
What other costs can I expect to pay?
 
While your mortgage payment may be your biggest expense, you'll have other regular and periodic payments which will vary with your circumstances. Regular expenses may include utilities, property taxes, land rental fees, insurance, routine maintenance, and other service fees, such as water and sewer. Today's manufactured homes are built to meet new national energy standards set by HUD. The energy-conserving features found in manufactured homes help reduce monthly energy costs.
 
How much maintenance will my home need?
 
Your homeowner's manual outlines maintenance requirements, and it's important that you follow them. Failure to follow them could void your warranty, as well as erode the value and shorten the lifespan of your home. Additional maintenance, systems and safety information can be provided by an InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection. 
 
What warranty coverage is offered on the home, its transportation, and its installation?
 
All manufacturers offer a written warranty that should cover:

• structural workmanship; 
• factory-installed plumbing, heating and electrical systems;  
• factory-installed appliances, which also may be covered by separate warranty; and  
• appliance manufacturer warranties. 

There are important differences among warranties. For example, manufacturer warranties usually do not cover installation (also called "set-up") and transportation of the home, although you may be able to get this coverage through the retailer or installation contractor. Although you may never need such warranty services, it's a good idea to check the coverage on any warranties offered before you buy. 
 
InterNACHI-certified home inspectors know where to look for defective work. Whether you’re buying an existing home or considering a new home, allow the inspector to use his/her special knowledge to help protect you by finding defects while the home is still under warranty, and before they cause damage or injury to you or your family.
 
Where can I locate my home?
 
Many homes are placed on privately-owned property. If this option appeals to you, find out about zoning laws, restrictive covenants, and utility connections. Your retailer can give you more information. Another option is to place your home in a land-lease community specifically designed for manufactured homes. Here, you own the home but lease the land. Placing your home in a land-lease community involves fewer siting considerations, such as utility connections. A third option is buying the home and land together in a planned subdivision where siting issues are handled by the developer.
 
May I move my home?
 
Yes, but it's not a common scenario. The transportation of a home can place considerable stress on its structure and components. Nevertheless, if you do plan to move your home in the future, make sure you check with the appropriate state authorities about transportation and zoning regulations. States have restrictions on weight, size and width that may prevent you from moving your home. If you relocate, make sure you use a professional transporter; never try to move the home yourself. It's also important to check the climate zone maps for your home. These maps tell you the wind, snow and thermal zones for which your home was constructed. Use them to determine whether your home is suitable for the new location you’re considering.
 
The actual overall costs connected with moving are another consideration. In addition to transport expenses, which include licensing fees to take your home through a state, you'll have to pay for a new foundation, installation, and utility hook-ups.